All the strong beautiful women….
Photo: @kaothic_alice
Photo: @maritutunni
Photo: @alvaroserranosierra
2.9 Oslo / Madrid
Photo: @kaothic_alice
Photo: @maritutunni
Photo: @alvaroserranosierra
Photo: @kaothic_alice
Photo: @maritutunni
Photo: @alvaroserranosierra
Why Recycled Plastic?
This is Giada and Margherita, the women behind UND Swimwear
We decided to sit down and have a talk with them about the way they do things behind the scenes, and to get to know a little bit more about their raw material, which is made from recycled plastic.
JF: Hi Giada and Margherita, thank you for sitting down with us! So, we are wondering, what is recycled Lycra?
Giada&Margherita: The recycled Lycra we chose to craft our swimwear in, is an Italian sustainable techno fabric, made of a regenerated Nylon obtained by recycling plastic waste materials, like fishing nets recovered from our oceans. This incredible fabric, together with being sustainable, has high technical properties, such as 50+ UV protection and a bi-stretch extra comfort feel structure, which provides a perfect “silk glove” fit to our swimsuits.
JF: How did you come up with the idea to use this type of material?
Giada&Margherita: We discovered this incredible fabric as we were looking for the most sustainable material we could find to craft our garments. Furthermore, this fabric is not just sustainable because of its composition, it is also a very high quality technical Lycra that will allow the swimsuits to last in time in all their beauty, to be durable. We wanted our collections to be long lasting, not disposable. We are aware that fashion is currently one of the most polluting industries and we don’t want to become part of the problem.
JF: How does it affect your collections to choose this kind of raw material?
Giada&Margherita: We are now projecting our fourth collection and each one of them was crafted with the same sustainable Lycra. This is a silver lining as it provides coherence and continuity to our collections, making them timeless and unseasonable. This means that a swimsuit belonging to our ss17 can be worn with one that will belong to ss20 collection. Same aesthetics, same fabric. Fast fashion offers very seasonal and trend related garments that age fast, both for materials and aesthetics. Choosing to stick to this one incredible fabric allows us to avoid this unsustainable mechanism.
JF: What is the impact you have when you choose to use this type of source for a product?
Giada&Margherita: In terms of production, the choice of using this kind of recycled material means sustaining the companies -and the people- who work for a much cleaner ocean, for a sustainable way of producing. As they say, by producing that material, “they turn waste problems into fashion solutions”, and we love to actively be part of this philosophy. But the choice of a sustainable fabric is just a part of UND swimwear being sustainable. All our
creative process is focused on building a sustainable brand
Where workers get paid and are appreciated
Not only is this swimwear made from plastic waste, it is also handcrafted in Italy. The Italian label has a thought through process from start to the product is delivered to customers.
The factory producing the Lycra is ISO 14001 certified, which means that their management system must work towards meeting all UN’s Sustainable Development Goals.
For the production of the swimwear, UND work with Monica and Marco, and their factory which has 30-years of experience in crafting high-end swimwear. The volumes are low, and the growth of the production-volumes slow.
Und work closely with the artisans and every season they fit their models together with the team, to listen to their feedback and keep the dialog close. The artisan lab is located in Rimini, a small town by the sea in Emilia Romagna, the best known Italian spot for production of swimwear.
Check out all swimwear here!
Dive a little deeper into the topic of regenerated synthetic fibers
People: What about the microplastics!!?
JF: So, this issue with recycled plastic made into new products which are plastic, is a disputed topic. For Just Fashions part, we’ve been reading and following each discussion with our usual nuanced position. We don’t think anything is either or. And we do think than when it comes to swimwear, it is really difficult to use anything else than a stretchy material that can tolerate wear and tear in the sun and salty or chlorinated water. A product that doesn’t sag or use several hours to dry. So we’ve settled with the fact that swimwear in recycled plastic waste is a pretty damn good solution. And of course, quality trumps everything! If it doesn’t last it doesn’t need to exist.
Recycled synthetics may not be the worst starting point for high quality wear. According to the MADE-BY Fiber Benchmark, which considers the whole life of a fiber, the water and energy use, and the lifespan, recycled synthetics are at the top of the chain as one of the fibers with lowest footprint, together with recycled wool and cotton. Sadly MADE-BY lost their funding last year and will not carry forward this independent non-profit index.
We also consider sportswear brand Houdini a label to trust and be guided by. This is a company that we feel closely linked to in philosophy and their Environmental Audits are a study in how to look into and measure every step you take. Read their take on fiber here
Our conclusion?
For Performance and Leisure Wear we can recommend regenerated synthetic fiber, but from sources and brands that also take care of other parts of their supply chain. We also recommend using a Gruppy Friend bag when you wash your product. To date it is the best way of fetching microplastics from running out into our ocean. The washing machine industry is also catching up, making new filters fetching these tiny particles.
Why Harris Tweed?
Ingrid Pettersson is a young Norwegian designer based in Oslo. She’s got her education from Oslo National Academy of Arts, and caught our eye the moment we saw her first runway show.
Photo: Guro Beitohaugen,
Hair and makeup: Marielle Grøneng,
Model: Gosia.
We sat down and had a short talk with Ingrid about her drop of original Harris Tweed, two pieces made with that extra personal tweak that only Ingrid knows how to do.
JF: Hi Ingrid, we would like you to explain, what kind of raw material is Harris Tweed?
Ingrid: Harris Tweed is a tweed from yarn which is dyed and spun in the Scottish Outer Hebrides and woven by hand in homes of local crofters. Harris Tweed is a truly ecologically sound textile, with low-impact VOC (volatile organic compound) absorbent production process, non-allergenic and biodegradable.
JF: How did you come up with the idea to use this type of material?
Ingrid: I wanted to use tweed in several of the looks in my new collection. I got help to source and find an environmentally friendly supplier from JF Curated. Harris tweed is known for its high quality and I was very happy to find out that they also had a sustainable way of making their fabrics.
JF: So, How does it affect your design to use this type of material?
Ingrid: Sometimes it can be hard to find the right suppliers, the fabric stores in Oslo have very little information about the textiles they are selling. It’s always easiest to look online, but still it is very helpful to have skilled people to help sort out what is good and what is “bad”.
JF: What is the impact you have when you choose to use this type of source for a product?
Ingrid: Every garment will have a longer life and I know that the material is made in a sustainable way, and hopefully the customers will appreciate this. The price is higher, but I think people are starting to understand that we have to choose differently, spend money on quality and not quantity.
Take a look at the Tweed drop here
Dive a bit deeper into Harris tweed
Harris Tweed is made of 100% Pure New Wool, dyed, blended, carded, spun, warped, woven, finished, examined and stamped in the Scottish Outer Hebrides by local crofters and artisans.
The weaving process is done in the artisants homes, as the laws outline in the 1993 Harris Tweed Act of Parliament.
At the heart of the Harris Tweed industry lies the relationship between the weavers and the mills. Neither can survive without the other and they are connected through the process of making the tweed. There are also professional wool dyers and blenders, yarn spinners and warpers, cloth finishers and stampers and many more roles in between. They are all part of a slow traditional way of producing.
“The long, barren archipelago on the far north west tip of Europe is home to every dyer, blender, carder, spinner, warper, weaver, finisher and inspector of HARRIS TWEED. No part of the process takes place elsewhere”
Quote Harris Tweed website
Craftsmanship
Harris Tweed is a handmade fabric, and the only fabric produced in commercial quantities by traditional methods. It was originally developed because it was ideal for protection against the colder climate in the North of Scotland, but that also means today that it is made for longevity, and guarantees the highest quality,
Before finishing it up, it is washed and beated in soda and soapy water, before it is dried, steamed, pressed and cropped to a perfect, flawless condition. The final process is the examination by the independent Harris Tweed Authority, before application of the famous “Orb Trademark” which is ironed on to the reverse of the fabric as the ultimate seal of approval.
Your product is warm in winter and cool in summer. It resists water and wear and tear with ease, cleans easily and can be repaired with the simplest of tools.
Animal Welfare
The sheep that gave their wool to this fabric lives on the Scottish mainland. In the early summer, the island communities join together to round up and shear the local sheep. Like the whole process of Harris Tweed, this is also done in a slow manner with care for animals.
The wool fabric is also biodegradable and can be composted in a compost bin with other biodegradable materials a long long time from now in the future when they are worn out.
From the beginning, Harris Tweed was coloured with natural dyes, but this process can no longer be carried out, as the vegetation is now protected. The colouring process is still truly ecologically sound, and done with low-impact VOC (volatile organic compound) absorbent production process, it is non-allergenic and biodegradable.
Supporting traditional skills
Harris tweed have been woven for centuries and was originally made by crofters for familial use. The The Orb Trademark was registered in 1910. Each inch of wool is dyed and spun in an island mill and every yard is handwoven in the home of a Harris Tweed weaver. These skills are passed down from generation to generation of the island’s community with pride. When you buy a product made from Harris Tweed, you support a tradition that needs to be aknowledged and continued. You are now supporting low-impact handwoven production methods and true artisans.
Why alpaca?
This is Grace, the woman behind the label Graciela Huam.
She is born in Peru, but her collections are born in the Netherlands, and then manufactured in her homeland.
We sat down with Grace to have a talk about how her beautiful high quality pieces are made, and we were especially curious about the use of alpaca wool as raw material. For us Norwegians, they are quite dreamy strange and really, really cute animals, so we wanted to know a little bit more about them.
Alpaca wool as raw material
JF: So Grace, what is an Alpaca?
Grace: An Alpaca is an animal native to the Andes, where they’ve been domesticated for around 5000 years. They are in the family of the Camel, but don’t have the humps. In addition to Llamas that are also domesticated, you find two wild types, the vicuña and guanaco, who still continue to roam in wild herds today.
There are again two types of Alpacas, one is fluffy with the softest fleece that makes them like a teddy bear. The other grows silky loose fleece in beautiful locks.
The alpacas are sheared once a year, usually in the spring, before the heat of summer begins, to not make them feel uncomfortable. Since the Alpaca is such an excellent insulator, cold winters don’t bother them as long as they have their fur.
JF: What are their features, and what are the qualities that you like best with this animal?
Grace:’ For one, they are recognized globally for their soft and luxurious fiber that is lightweight, durable and has excellent thermal qualities.
But something that I like and love about Alpacas is their personality. They are smart, adorable, gentle, calm and pretty social. Many times also nervous, curious, shy and quiet.
JF: How did you end up with the idea to use alpaca wool?
Grace: I am Peruvian, and I’ve been working already for more than 5 years in sourcing, and then specializing in alpaca wool and Peruvian cotton. I am pretty passionate about natural resources and my country Peru. I live currently in the Netherlands, now my second home, and my mission is to create a connection between Peru and the Netherlands, bringing together European design with the traditional techniques of knitwear in Peru.
Our choice of raw material is key for the development of this design. With these choices we also support Peru as a supplier and we support the small farmers.
JF: How does it affect your collections and what is the impact you have when you choose this type of source for a product?
Grace: By choosing the way we do, our customers will find collections that are built on the unique combination of superb quality, innovative craftsmanship, sustainable lifestyle and traditional techniques.
We’ve already launched 4 collections with this talented team.
The impact we have is our whole ethical supply chain, but the animal in itself is a really good sustainable choice. A normal alpaca produced 2 to 2,4 Kg of fiber each year, enough to make 4 to 5 sweaters. In comparison, a cashmere goat generally only produces enough wool for 1 sweater a year.
Alpaca fiber is softer, lighter and stronger than cashmere and sheep wool, and it doesn’t feel prickly against the skin. It is also lanolin free, unlike sheep wool, which means that it holds less allergens, bacteria and dust. Also, there are 22 different natural colours, ranging from white, grey and brown to black, which means less dying of yarn.
JF: Thank you for your time Grace!
Take a look at Graciela Huams products here
The Story of Canem Studios
We are happy to introduce our newest member to our gang, Canem Studios. Made by dog lover, Thea, the human.
Graduated from Esmod Oslo in 2012 with the collection “Imago AW 12/13”, for which she won the prizes “best modelism ladies wear” and “ the jury foreman’s prize by Bjørn Brunn (Bruuns Bazaar). Winner of the Norwegian Fashion Week competition, with the collection “Skimtede Vesen” in 2011 alongside with Graphic designers Daniel Lied and Julius V Langhoff. Thea Dyring has explored these different stages and designed a collection with the goal of capturing the transformation through the use of textures, patterns, prints and 3D-shapes.
The idea and the founder
Her vision was to create a dog brand that leaves as little footprint as possible, while still creating beautiful hardwearing designs for our best friends. The idea came from wanting sustainable dogwear, in beautiful Scandinavian style for her three dogs. Located in Norway, Canem studio is a“ made to order” brand. To reduce waste the team only make pieces that are ordered beforehand. It´s Thea herself that makes all the dog gear, from her home in Oslo.
Sourcing close to home
The brand focus on trying to source as much materials as possible from Scandinavia, supporting local and environmentally friendly production. They have pieces made of virgin wool from Romsdalen and all their leather is vegetable tanned leather, mostly from Tarnsjø Tannery in Sweden. The leather used is sourced back to a specific farm in Sweden.
To reduce fabric waste she recently started working with getting excess textile from the Norwegian brand Lillunn. They provide her with 100% pure new norwegian lambswool. Her next collection will only have wool from Lillunn, which means waste for both Lillunn and Canem Studios. Low carbon footprint, and the knowledge in where the material comes from are just some of the advantages.
Vegetable tanned leather
Tarnsjø Tannery have a 140 year old experience with organic vegetable tanning, and is today among the remaining 5% of tanning houses that still uses this method. This is an old school method that requires time and effort, but more on that later on. To ensure the tannery operates in a sustainable fashion they certify their business with available partners.
Vegetable tanned leather earned its name because only natural tannins are used, those found in tree barks, fruits and leaves, and usual use of Chrome is left out of the process. This ensures the the wonderful scent of 100% organic vegetable tanned leather, the unique characteristics and makes it easily distinguishable. As a sign of authenticity, no two items are the same, and the leather will gain character, reveal imperfections and reflect the individual owner’s lifestyle
Vegetable tanned vs Chemical tanned
90% of the leather you see today is chemically tanned, that means that in the tanning process its used different kinds of acid.
Chemical/Chrome tanned leather takes about 1-2 days to complete, while vegetable tanned leather takes up to 6 weeks. Tanning the leather organically is both more expensive and takes a lot longer to complete, but the results are worth it.
The leather is sturdier and gives more structure, its therefore perfect to use as collars and leads.
The advantage with using vegetable tanned leather is that its low toxic, since the materials in the methods are organic.
Check out some beautiful dog wear here!
Vegetable tanned leather
https://bestleather.org/types-of-leather/vegetable-tanned/
https://jacksonwayne.com/pages/what-is-vegetable-tanned-leather
Canem Studios
http://www.thenordique.com/blog/2020/1/4/canem-studio
Certifications :
https://www.petersoncontrolunion.com/en // https://static.tarnsjogarveri.com/files/tuv.pdf
https://www.tuv.com/world/en/ //https://static.tarnsjogarveri.com/files/ocs.pdf ,
Curated by: Charlotte Dos Santos
We invited the talented musician, soul- and jazz-singer and songwriter Charlotte Dos Santos to share her thoughts on life, art and fashion. And of course to curate her JF favorites and share her best style tips.
We admire Charlotte, both for the music she makes, her style and personality, and as an empathic, emotional, stubborn and wandering human. She´s a traveller, with her heart placed in different countries and continents at all time, but she is especially connected to her Brazilian heritage.
In fashion Charlotte is inspired by unconventional shapes and movement. She describes her style like a mood ring, which continuously changes color based on her mood. But – she hates being cold and loves comfort, and since she’s born the sign of the pisces – she’s addicted to comfortable shoes.
Earrings: Yoster
JF: Hi Charlotte! Where are you based these days?
Charlotte: Right now I´m based in Oslo, but I travel a lot between Oslo and London where I play at festivals, do shoots and press that leads up to my new release. I´ve also been very excited to share the news that I have just signed with a new record company!
JF: How do your music come to life, and whats important to you when you make music?
Charlotte: First of all I need new experiences and impulses, to travel and grow so I don´t stagnate. My creative process is very spontaneous, but mostly I can feel something coming on and just know when I need to make something. I´m also very emotional, and if I invest my feelings enough in something, it can become food for my music. Other than that I just need calm and quiet, my usual writing equipment and a keyboard.
JF: Who do you want to be for the people who listen to your music?
Charlotte: I think I would like people to create their own image of me, as who they need me to be for them. The most important part is that I can be me for me. It took some time for me to figure out that it was totally ok to be who I am. Now I never compromise when it comes to that.
JF: What is important to you when it comes to fashion?
Charlotte: I get fascinated by shapes and movement. I find unconventional shapes really interesting. Shapes that challenges what we´re used to and what looks “right”. Other than that it´s of course important that it is flattering on the person wearing it. I´ve also noticed that my style and taste in fashion changes with me as I grow as a person and as a musician. Almost like a mood ring that changes colors!
I also love finding new, small and independent designers. The thought that someone has been working on what I´m wearing as a school project once is so unique and fun! I´m also looking forward to the day I can wear Haute Couture, of course, but that´s still in the future.
JF: Whats the first thing you notice about a person?
Charlotte: Aura, radiance and energy. They say that the eyes are the window to the soul. I feel they always tells someones story.
JF: How do you plan when getting dressed?
Charlotte: I´m one of those people that always puts comfort first. I hate being cold! I would never compromise on that and will chose being warm above all else. When I dress for my stage performances I have to think about movement, how I can breathe and move as relaxed and free as possible
JF: Do you have one garment in your wardrobe that always just works, regardless of weather or mood?
Charlotte: No, I mostly dress by mood. Also I love unique items so my wardrobe mostly consists of vintage, second hand or garments from independent Norwegian designers. When it comes to vintage-shopping it mostly comes down to treasure hunting or luck, more than the functionality of each item. Vintage-pieces are rarely very versatile. Sometimes it fits perfectly, but is wrong for the weather. And as we all know the Norwegian weather is so changing and can go from freezing cold to really hot. Also I´m not the kind of person with only black clothing in my wardrobe.
JF: What do you want to say about the items you picked from JF Curated?
Charlotte: Comfort is a key factor for me and will always be a starting point for what I´m wearing. I often fall for pieces that I can wear for many different occasions; at a party, at an event and also in my day to day life. I also love to mix things up in my own way, to give it a personal and unique expression which is only mine. These pieces from JF Curated were perfect for that.
The silk dress from BITE just stood out and caught my eye. The two-piece with a jacket and a skirt from Ingrid Pettersson gave me that perfect Clueless, 90s-vibe, which I love. You feel sophisticated and well-dressed, and also it´s made in wool! Warm! Altså i love two-pieces because they are so versatile and can be used both together and apart. I chose the coat from Maja Stabel because of the amazing color, shape and material, an the fact that it was really flattering on me. Now when fall aproaches, a coat like this could save the entire season for someone like me who gets cold easily.
Skirt: Ingrid Pettersson
JF: What are your thoughts on fashion and a sustainable lifestyle?
Charlotte: As mentioned I own mostly vintage or second hand. Much because I try to be a conscious shopper but also because I love unique stuff. I find fast-fashion very difficult, especially how more high end brands can have the same poor production and quality as the fast fashion chains. So I try to do my best, but it´s of course really hard. I find quality really important, and I´m so happy I found JF Curated and learned to see all the possibilities. To actually see a change happening now in the fashion industry makes me so inspired.
JF: Can you mention three of your favorite clothing items?
Charlotte: I´m so boring like that! I´ve never had a favorite song or favorite food. I´m either really indecisive or it´s just that I like so many different things. But if I have to mention something it must be my jewelry, I will always love and treasure my collection. As well as comfortable shoes.
Shirt/dress: Eline Dragesund
Pants: Veja Kocarik
JF: What do you dream about?
Charlotte: As a child I dreamed about growing up to be a musician or a pop-star. Very on point. Nowadays I just dream about being able to keep working with my music. Other than that I have smaller dreams and goals, like buying my own house og an apartment. And of course I have a dream that I´ll never get to comfortable with my own situation, that I can keep that fire in me that will make me try to do good things and try to make a change in this world.
JF: To you have a cause that is especially close to your heart?
Charlotte: I´m half Brazilian and half Norwegian, and I feel very strongly connected to Brazil and the Amazonas. My great grandmother was indigenous, something I think has left traces in me as well. The wellbeing of nature, the rainforest, tribes and different indigenous people is definitely something close to my heart. Other than that I care about people, and I hope that when I feel more grounded in life I can do something to help others, maybe by teaching.
JF: If you could change one thing about the world, what would that be?
Charlotte: Og my god, there´s so many things! I would definitely wish for empathy to be one of the most distinct feelings in us humans. I think lack of empathy is the root to most of the problems we face in our society today.
JF: What do you think the world could do without?
Charlotte: Trump, Bolsonaro, money. I think a trading system would be nice. Also, mosquitos?
JF: When are you at your best?
Charlotte: When I´m in Brazil or in a new, warm place. When I´m on stage, or when I´m with family and loved ones. I love the little moment and connections between people, between the old and the young. Especially when you don´t see each other as often. I´m totally dependent on family, and wan´t to keep everyone together and connected.
Sadly it´s been a while since my last visit in Brazil. My new album is sort of a homage to my Brazilian and Norwegian heritage, so I´m planning to make a music video to one of my songs (where I sing in Portuguese) in Brazil.
Earrings: Yoster
JF: Can you name three of your own favorite songs?
Charlotte: I´m totally obsessed with the songs on the new album – the newest single that will be out in October is called “Harvest Time” and is my current favorite. Other than that the songs “Move On” og “Red Clay” from my album “Cleo” are favorites!
JF: Where do you like to go out in Oslo at night?
Charlotte: Fuglen, OsloVelo and Torggata Botaniske.
JF: What´s your latest Google-search?
Charlotte: The Eihei-Ji temple I visited in Japan last spring. I´m currently working on something really exciting in Japan, and I´m so excited to share it soon!
Earrings: Yoster
JF: Which words do you think you use the most?
Charlotte: “I love you”, “I need coffee”, “production value”, “when´s the deadline”, “amazing”.
JF: Whats your guilty pleasure?
Charlotte: Ru Pauls Drag Race. Not guilty though!
JF: What makes you angry?
Charlotte: Ignorance, toxic masculinity, missing empathy, racism, megalomani (hi Trump and Kanye West).
JF: What makes you happy?
Charlotte: Love, thoughtfulness, music, animals, nature, wine, the sea, food, dancing, community.
Thank you, Charlotte!
5 for: September
September is on us and fall is officially here. We tend to pull back, into our homes and into our selves. Time has come to look over what we have and get a more clear view of what we own. Sometimes that means organizing and cleaning out our wardrobe. Clearing out what´s no longer in season, take care of the pieces that might need some extra love, putting our fall coat back on the rack and prepare for our fall wardrobe.
We in JF Curated love the pieces that always just works, regardless of season, weather, occasion or mood. Garments and pieces that makes you happy when you open your closet doors, that makes you feel safe that they will keep following you year after year, making the transition from summer to fall easier.
1. SHE-Necklace // Yoster
Yosters ambition and vision is creating structural jewelry to bond with, feel empowered by, and one day want to pass on. The SHE necklace is hand made and produced in Tel Aviv, and comes in gold plated silver or sterling silver. This is a proper go-to necklace, which can always give your outfit the edge it might need, while at the same time being classic, timeless, and almost a piece of art in itself. Yoster makes several high quality chunky chains, earrings and rings with both structure and sculptural qualities. See more from Yoster here.
2. Short organic wool trench coat // BITE Studios
Swedish brand BITE Studios makes garments so high in quality it makes you happy just by touching them. This coat is inspired by the classic trench coat, which we all know just works. It is double breasted, featuring storm patch, back yoke and vent, epaulettes and sleeve straps, everything a coat needs from exciting seam work. Also it goes well with about everything. The coat works perfect on the more chilly days, made in organic Melton wool with a dense texture and a heavy feel it will keep you warm in the months to come. It also has an oversized so it will fit a chunky knit underneath on the even colder days.
3. Braided knit wool sweater // BITE Studios
You know that one wool sweater that just feels like it could solve all the worlds problems? At least thats how it feels when you´re getting dressed on a cold fall Monday morning. This sweater has the most amazing shoulder details, voluminous and very much in style at the moment, while they´re also giving it the unique advantage of being a basic garment while still standing out. It goes perfectly with everything from wide jeans, fitted skirts, relaxed slacks or tailored trousers. It´s heavy structured and soft in all the right ways, made by 80% GOTS certified organic wool, 15% alpaca and 5% nylon – which will help it hold its shape even longer.
4. Blossom hook earring // Hyrv
Can earrings make you happy? Get some help keeping a hold on summer with the beautiful yellow, egg yolk colored amber in these earrings from estonian brand Hyrv. They produce on order, focusing on sculpture. The Blossom-collection is, as its name suggests, inspired by flower bouquets and colors from the scandinavian nature, and each piece can be combined to heighten that effect. These earrings are both small and versatile, while still being just that pop of color an ordinary outfit can need on a grey september day. Check out their entire collection here.
5. Organic silk shirt // BITE Studios
Last but not least, the classic shirt. And the classic shirt certainly doesn´t have to be white. This dreamy silk shirt in light khaki green has a clean and straight cut which both makes it versatile and flattering to most body types. The color can be combined with both monochrome and more bold colors, and the long cuffs makes the shirt stand out without influencing the durability of the design. Silk is not only amazing on the skin, but it´s an amazing material that can both feel flowy and light by in the summer, while having an isolating and warming effect when layering it in fall. Try layering the shirt over a thin polo sweater!
Why Roll End Fabric?
This is Bo, she is head designer and founder behind her namesake label Bo Carter
We sat down with her to talk about the way they produce in the UK, England, and also about how they use one particular raw material. The fashion industry is renowned for the excess it creates. To combat this Bo Carter buy unused ‘roll end’ fabric from larger fashion brands in order to consume excess within the fashion industry before it becomes waste.
Roll End Fabric as raw material
JF: Hi Bo, we are curious to know, what is Roll End Fabric?
Bo: Roll end Fabric is larger or smaller leftovers from the conventional fashion industry, considered to be waste, as they are from previous collections.
JF: How did you come up with the idea to use this type of material?
Bo: We don’t follow trends and we love taking advantage of fabric that would go to waste only because they are not ‘in the season’ anymore. That’s just pointless.
JF: That’s so true, and it is all about the context, isn’t it? So how do you choose your roll, and how does it affect your collections?
Bo: We ‘rescue’ whatever is available at any particular time. We don’t always use them straight away, and sometimes they are saved for years before they fit into our collection. But they are always used, and nothing is thrown away.
JF: So, what is the impact you have when you choose to use this type of source for a product?
Bo: We save fully usable fabric from gong to landfills, and by that making a positive difference to our planet.
Bo Carter uses whatever fabric is left on the rolls until it runs out. Consequently, they typically make less than 30 pieces in each style. Due to this limited production method their roll end garments are very exclusive and can’t be repeated. Every piece is produced locally in the UK. Bo Carter is morally opposed to sweatshop manufacturing and the exploitation of cheap labour. Instead they commit to supporting local businesses and helping to rebuild the UK textile industry. By keeping production close to home, they can ensure high ethical standards are upheld throughout the supply chain and keep their carbon footprint as small as possible.
Thank you Bo!!
See all products from Bo Carter here!
Why Upcycling?
This is Fretex’s main reception for collected used items in Oslo.
Fretex is a Second-Hand chain and a social enterprise established by the Norwegian Salvation Army. They are the main recipient of used materials from Oslo’s inhabitants.
So this is a quite chaotic place, and not at all luxurious. Every day, stuff that people don’t want anymore rolls down the lane and gets sorted. A lot is also discarded and considered to be waste.
Upcycled fabric as raw material
This spring we initiated a collaboration with Fretex, to take some of these discarded materials and elevate them into new high quality products.
We started out talking with the designer we considered to be the right one for the project, and through a collaborative and long process with her, a product was developed.
Designer Eline Dragesund and Marte presented the idea for Fretex, and it was well received. Our overall goal will also be to try to establish a permanent sewing studio at Tøyen in Oslo, where we can do both training and give work to people who do not get to use their tailoring skills today.
At the assembly line
Even though designer Eline may stand for hours and hours to find the right fabric for the project, both destroyed enough to be considered waste, and high quality enough to get a second life, we’ve faked it a bit so that you can get a feeling of how it is at the facility
JF: So Eline, what does This project mean to you?
Eline: For me as a newly educated fashion designer from The National Academy of the Arts, it is a great honour to be able to collaborate with a company on this level. It is a springboard for me as well, and to be able to take local resources in use, like we do here, and make them into beautiful products, is just huge.
We collect resources from a sorting facility and elevate them and lift them into a luxury setting. It is modern alchemy. Marte is also really nice to collaborate with. The collaboration with Fretex has gone beyond expectations, even though they are really busy and have a lot to keep track of. Both JF Curated and I, we are so thankful and proud of the time and trust they’ve given to this collaboration.
After Eline has found the fabric it is taken to her studio or delivered to one of the tailors connected to the project, and the process of making it into a new and shiny product starts.
JF: So how did this project come to life from your side?
Fretex: Well, Marte and Eline attended an early morning meeting at Fretex Alnabru with an idea and sketches. They were engaging and as Fretex don’t have their own redesign department now, we felt it was a great time for a collaboration. For us it is important that the upcycling happens in accordance with the resource-pyramid, which implies that if a fabric can be used in its original form or current state when delivered to us, it should continue its life in that state. When it is not possible to sell in current state, if it is destroyed, e.g. , we are open for upcycling these fabrics into new ones.
JF: Why did you support this collaboration?
Fretex: When it comes to a project like this, one that aim to give people work and create added value to the material, we see it completely as a win. If these fabrics were not to be used here, they would be exported out of the country and be ground into small pieces. Every little thing that can stimulate people into new thinking and reuse is our focus!
JF: So what does this collaboration with JF mean to you guys?
Fretex: It means a lot, since we get to collaborate and be seen in arenas that we normally don’t. Both from an environmental and a social perspective. And we love that this project, both aims to build something that will give people work, and wants to prolong the lives of all these fabrics that would otherwise be destroyed. Somebody is going to love it and cherish it and that is a great thing. It is also a great way to use local resources. Fretex wants to give new opportunities for the used items that we receive and for people, and this project does both.
Last, but not least, JF Curated and Fretex have a common ground in our values. It is therefore a good way for us to be able to trust that our values are continued and passed on in this project.
Thank you to Fretex and Eline :)
Why Waste Reducing Pattern Construction?
This is Elsien Gringhuis and her team
We sat down to talk with Elsien about the team’s journey, and to talk a bit about the way she does her pattern construction.
Reducing waste in Pattern Construction
JF: Hi Elsien, we are wondering, what is a waste reducing pattern construction?
Elsien: It is a way of placing the pattern, so that you take the width of the garment and the placement of the pieces into acount, to make as little waste as possible. It can also start at the point where you plan the construction of your garment, and in some cases one can plan a product so that there are no waste alltogether.
JF: How did you come up with the idea to use this method in your production?
Elsien: From the start of my brand I made a serie of garments where each pattern exist from only a square or rectangle, using the whole fabric width. I used it literally as a square, like for example the square top. But I also draped with it so it was not directly recognizable as a square or rectangle. Furthermore I made a series for the Woolmark prize, I was nominated for in 2014, and made a line only existing from the most elementary shapes, like a circle, triangle and square. All these patterns fitted into each other so there was only a minimum of waste.
JF: How does it affect your collections to choose this way of designing?
Elsien: In total I have made two series with zero waste principle, and for me it is really about the puzzle, how can I make a fashionable collection without any waste. It made me very aware of how much fabrics got lost with the usual cutting.
When I started to work on this zero waste collection, I also wanted to reduce as many seams as possible because in the industry every seam, every handling costs energy and of course money. I also wanted to make this part as efficient as possible.
But sometimes less seams have consequences that it takes more fabric! So then the puzzle starts again. I work with my patterns to reduce waste, but only work zero waste for limited styles. And (almost) no seams is not always a solution for a zero waste pattern.
JF: What is the impact you have when you choose to work this way with products?
Elsien: The consequence is that I design very consciously. I choose every design, every fabric, every handling very carefully and always with a strong focus on sustainability. Because we make everything ourselves and only local, I have a very strong connection with the clothes. Nothing leaves the studio without going trough my hands.
We are very keen on our environmental impact, so that’s why we buy our fabrics mainly in Europe. And always use every single piece of fabric, also the little pieces. And because we do not work with seasonal collections, we can use up the fabric until it’s out. And we work extremely efficient so there is almost not waste :)
Se full collection from Elsien here!
More about Elsien and her studio
Elsiens focus on highly innovative patterns, reduces the waste to the max. Another great factor with the way Elsien and her team work, is that instead of building seasonal collections, they are building chapters in books. These chapters are meant to fit together, and also books have a line of cohesiveness to tight then together. Every piece is also made on demand, not before you order it, which saves the environment from overproduction.
By producing locally in the Netherlands with skilled tailors at work, Elsien support and create work for a craftsmanship that in many ways is about to be forgotten. To choose this way of producing, gives economic growth to her community and all tailors get fair pay for their work.
“There are many campaigns regarding “responsible clothing”. And I think that is a good thing! Unfortunately little has changed yet. I still read too often that as soon as employees within third world production companies stand up to rebel against the bad working conditions, they are violently stopped by the entrepreneurs and they are dismissed or are ruthlessly put back to work. I would like to see, that workers receive a humane living wage, normal work hours, a safe work environment and no discrimination and sexual harassment against women. I am proud to work for Elsien and to be a part of her mission and her commitment to change the (fashion) world and to make durable sustainable clothing.
Enjoy the clothes you wear! It is made for you with love!”
Janet, Tailor Production in Elsien Gringhuis Studio
Why merino and recycled Cashmere?
This is Anna, the woman behind Lana Serena
We sat down with Anna to get to know more about the way they’ve built their brand.
Merino wool and recycled cashmere as raw material
JF: Hi Anna, we are wondering, what is Recycled Cashmere?
Anna: Recycled cashmere is a precious and earth-friendly yarn that is regenerated from industrial surplus of 100% pure cashmere. It is carefully selected and then mechanically transformed into woollen fibers. Then these fibers are blended with pure premium merino wool in a ratio 95-5 and spun again into this premium recycled cashmere.
I fell in love with the wonderful recycled cashmere at once. The way it close the loop is great. On average four goats are needed to be sheared to get enough yarn to knit one cashmere sweater. That makes this fiber not only precious but difficult to sustain on a large scale. So choosing recycled cashmere feels the most respectful option towards the planet.
JF: That’s brilliant use of surplus material! So how did you come up with the idea to use this type of material
Anna: When we discovered that qualified Italian mill that developed a wonderful and pure recycled cashmere (95% recycled cashmere and 5% merino wool), things fell into place. We wanted to include it in a couple of our designs to get that exciting mix of tradition and innovation.
Cashmere is one of the world’s finest fiber. The demand of cashmere has not stopped growing, and grasslands of Mongolia (which exports one third of the world cashmere) are suffering from desertification because an overpopulation of goats. That’s why it is important to find new solutions.
JF: What about your other raw material, the merino wool, how do you work with the shepherds to collect it?
Anna: At Lana Serena we buy all the merino wool yarn through the initiative Transhumance by Made in Slow. In Spain, transhumance is a centenarian practice that consists on moving the flock of sheep from the valley to the adjacent mountains in order to feed them with fresh grass the whole year around. This initiative is important because it agrees with local shepherds, and gives them a fair price for the wool. Thus encouraging them to keep this tradition. In Spring they collect the wool (fleece) and the whole process of the yarn is also made in Spain.
We wants to support shepherds and their flock of sheep and we also want to contribute to the preservation of Spanish rural traditions and cultural heritage. The goal of the initiative Transhumance by Made in Slow is to make sure the shepherds can make a living off the wool and by that encourage more shepherds to recover that centenarian practice. Traceability and transparency is crucial in our collaboration.
JF: What is the impact you have when you choose to use this type of source for a product?
Anna: It was the summer of 2015 when I discovered that some Spanish shepherds were discarding the wool of their merino sheep. I researched on Spanish wool heritage and wool happened to be the purpose to start this project. By sourcing Spanish merino wool from transhumant flock of sheep, we are contributing to the protection of our cultural and natural heritage.
Sheep play an important role as part of the countryside’s biodiversity and also contribute to clean the underwood and thus preventing wildfires. By shearing, cleaning, spinning and knitting in Spain, we are helping to preserve the old professions associated to the wool trade and reduce the CO2 impact of the whole process.
Thank you Anna!
See all of Lana Serena’s pieces here!
Dive deeper into this story
Transhumance of sheep
The remaining shepherds practicing transhumance, comes from families who have been this for generations.
Transhumance means to follow the old traditions of seasonal migration of livestock, and the people who tend them, between lowlands and the adjacent mountains. Transhumance in Spain has been a key factor for the merino wool quality. The reason is that sheep who roam get better quality of grass and that turns into a better quality of their fleece.
Made in Slow is a platform, founded and directed by Alberto Díaz, whose mission is to preserve and recuperate Spanish cultural heritage at risk of disappearance.
Supporting Traditional Skills
Lana Serena’s merino wool comes from transhumant merino flock of sheep from Castilla y León and Extremadura (Spain). They migrate twice per year with their shepherds from the grasslands to the summer pastures up in the mountains using the centenarian Cañadas Reales or Royal routes.
“Lana Serena does not follow trends and seasons. We conceive our designs as timeless, and our quality is premium. We encourage you to wear them year after year because they will never seem out of date. We mostly produce made to order. And in the unlike possibility that a piece is discarded, you must know that pure wool is 100% biodegradable. It decomposes into the earth acting as a natural fertilizer”
The artisan pieces which are more avant-garde than the mainline are hand knitted by Artisan women from rural regions in Castilla and Leon. By that, Lana Serena also supports the recovery of centennial trades and the empowerment of women. Right now they are working with a group of 5 women who do the knitting the pieces. They decide over their jobs.
Their main line is manufactured in a family owned workshop near Barcelona. There is a long textile tradition in Catalonia that comes from the nineteenth century.
Why 3D Printing?
This is Hila, the woman behind Yoster Jewelry brand
Hila works with two main suppliers, the caster and the plater, and both are small family run businesses. The 3D printing is a growing part of the jewelry industry and this combination of new and old is a necessary part of the development of the craft. With this process you also leave no excess material behind, and it can save a lot of waste in the production process.
We had a talk with Hila about the way she’s been trying to implement 3D printing in her production process early on.
3D printing as production process
JF: Hi Hila, nice to have this talk with you! So, we are wondering, how does 3D printing of jewelry work?
Hila: In the past few years, the jewelry industry has been transformed with the introduction of 3D-printers, which are capable of producing easily-castable, high detail parts. “3D printing jewelry” doesn’t mean directly producing end-use pieces of jewelry. In other words, jewelers don’t 3D print golden rings. Instead, we 3D print highly detailed wax models of the desired rings, which are later used to make molds, like the traditional of the disappearing wax technique.
And all Yoster’s pieces finishes are done by hand, so the evolution of the jewelry is quite interesting. Backwards form tech – to handmade! :)
JF: How did you come up with the idea to use this type of process?
Hila: I studied 3D print during my BA degree in jewelry design. We studied the software for 2 semesters, and in the following semesters we had some projects that we must produce by 3d printing. To be honest I was one of the worst in my class, I am not “a computer person” and this software is very complicated for me, though the benefit of it is amazing! Actually my ‘3D climber earring’ is the result of a class project in my 3th year degree (six years ago) – and it is the first 3d printing jewelry that I ever did, it was such a success and it goes with me ever since (it is funny I named it after it- but it is a reminder for when it all started)
JF: That’s so cool! How does it affect your collections to use this process?
Hila: Yoster’s designs are accompanied by a sense of timeless objects that was found in nature which are delicately treated to make fine jewelry. When I start to work on a new model, I start by sculpting with wax, when I get to a point where i see i don’t get the result i wish, not precise enough or i see it is going to be very heavy, or just that I don’t have enough time to develop it, so I understand it should be by 3d printing. before i go to 3d printing i must have a wax model (to gain an appreciation of a form and structure), drawing and images of inspiration reference. So the result of it is by combination all of it. As i mentioned before that working on that software is not easy for me, so I have an amazing engineer digital technology modeler who I work with to help me build my designs. We sit together with the wax and drawing and building it up together.
JF: What is the impact you have when you choose to use this type of process for products?
Hila: By 3d i have control on everything (weight, dimensions etc..) it allows me to express my creativity and imagination without limits.
I can see the exact result without spending 1gr of materiel. Yes, of course, it happened to me that after I printed I was not satisfied and then I print again, but as I have more and more experience with 3d it happens less.
In addition, manually crafting jewelry molds can be quite expensive, whereas 3D Printing is a quick manufacturing technique that also allows you to easily change the design of the digital model. Working with a 3D printed piece versus a wax piece takes a quarter of the time. It’s not just the time I saved, it is what else I’m able to do with that time that has been the biggest savings.
Thank you Hila!
Check out all jewelry from Yoster here!
“Yoster is named after my parents, Yosi and Ester. In their short lives they’ve taught me the two most important skills for an artist, how to touch and how to believe”
Hila
Why alpaca?
This is Grace, the woman behind the label Graciela Huam.
She is born in Peru, but her collections are born in the Netherlands, and then manufactured in her homeland.
We sat down with Grace to have a talk about how her beautiful high quality pieces are made, and we were especially curious about the use of alpaca wool as raw material. For us Norwegians, they are quite dreamy strange and really, really cute animals, so we wanted to know a little bit more about them.
Alpaca wool as raw material
JF: So Grace, what is an Alpaca?
Grace: An Alpaca is an animal native to the Andes, where they’ve been domesticated for around 5000 years. They are in the family of the Camel, but don’t have the humps. In addition to Llamas that are also domesticated, you find two wild types, the vicuña and guanaco, who still continue to roam in wild herds today.
There are again two types of Alpacas, one is fluffy with the softest fleece that makes them like a teddy bear. The other grows silky loose fleece in beautiful locks.
The alpacas are sheared once a year, usually in the spring, before the heat of summer begins, to not make them feel uncomfortable. Since the Alpaca is such an excellent insulator, cold winters don’t bother them as long as they have their fur.
JF: What are their features, and what are the qualities that you like best with this animal?
Grace:’ For one, they are recognized globally for their soft and luxurious fiber that is lightweight, durable and has excellent thermal qualities.
But something that I like and love about Alpacas is their personality. They are smart, adorable, gentle, calm and pretty social. Many times also nervous, curious, shy and quiet.
JF: How did you end up with the idea to use alpaca wool?
Grace: I am Peruvian, and I’ve been working already for more than 5 years in sourcing, and then specializing in alpaca wool and Peruvian cotton. I am pretty passionate about natural resources and my country Peru. I live currently in the Netherlands, now my second home, and my mission is to create a connection between Peru and the Netherlands, bringing together European design with the traditional techniques of knitwear in Peru.
Our choice of raw material is key for the development of this design. With these choices we also support Peru as a supplier and we support the small farmers.
JF: How does it affect your collections and what is the impact you have when you choose this type of source for a product?
Grace: By choosing the way we do, our customers will find collections that are built on the unique combination of superb quality, innovative craftsmanship, sustainable lifestyle and traditional techniques.
We’ve already launched 4 collections with this talented team.
The impact we have is our whole ethical supply chain, but the animal in itself is a really good sustainable choice. A normal alpaca produced 2 to 2,4 Kg of fiber each year, enough to make 4 to 5 sweaters. In comparison, a cashmere goat generally only produces enough wool for 1 sweater a year.
Alpaca fiber is softer, lighter and stronger than cashmere and sheep wool, and it doesn’t feel prickly against the skin. It is also lanolin free, unlike sheep wool, which means that it holds less allergens, bacteria and dust. Also, there are 22 different natural colours, ranging from white, grey and brown to black, which means less dying of yarn.
JF: Thank you for your time Grace!
Take a look at Graciela Huams products here
Sunniva Hartgen for president
Beautiful story “Oslo Nights”
Showpiece coat by Tonje Plur and pearl earring by T-Raw, styled by Sunniva Hartgen
Foto: Hugo Jozwicki
Styling: Sunniva Hartgen / Pudder Agency
Hear: Pål Berdahl
Makeup: Marthe Hesvik
Fotoass: Alvin Santos
H&M COSTUME WEB from Kontent on Vimeo.
Organic Silk vs Silk
What’s the difference between Organic and commercial silk?
First of all, the difference between the two is not that big, but the result of choosing one over the other makes a difference. The process is almost the same, but the scale of which they are produced and what is put into the production is not.
Silk is one of the oldest fibers we know of and has its origin from China, around 2600 BC. The cultivation of silkworms in order to produce silk is called sericulture. The first step in the production is called “hatching the eggs”. During this stage, silkworms lay eggs in an artificial environment with the aim of getting them to lay as many eggs as possible. The female produces around 300 tot 400 eggs at the time. The silkworm dies right after laying these eggs. After 10 days, the eggs hatch into larvae (caterpillars), and the feeding period starts.
During the feeding period in commerical silk production the larvae is fed mulberry leaves (results in the finest silk) and grow very fast. They eat around 50.000 times of their initial weight. In approximately 6 weeks, the larvae are 10.000 times heavier than at the time of hatching, and ready to spin a silk cocoon. The silkworm needs around 3 till 8 days to spin a cocoon, thereby producing one kilometer of silk filament.
Organic silk has more or less the same processing as conventional silk here, but no pesticides, insecticides or harsh chemicals have been used to make land or larva grow faster. The silkworms get a more varied diet instead of mulberry leafs alone, and everything is organic.
When the coooon is ready, it is treated with boiling water or hot air and the silk filaments are unwounded again, getting soft by the heat, which is called “reeling the filament”.
In nature, at this point, the silkworm (e.g. chrysalis) would break out of the cocoon and become a moth. However, this would damage the silk fibers, and therefore the chrysalis is killed before the thread is collected from the cocoon.
The process in organic silk production and commercial production is more or less the same in the stage where the silkthread is collected. There is still no way of keeping the thread in one piece and make the moth survive.
One cocoon contains only a small amount of silk and around 2500 silkworms are needed in order to produce one pound of raw silk. Silk amounts to only a very small percentage of the total textile fiber market, even less than 0.2%. Organic silk is then again a marginal percentage of this. The production is small and controlled, thus also creates a smaller amount of raw material.
To conclude:
- Organic silk still kills the silk worm to get one length of thread. If you want silk where the silk work leaves the cocoon before the thread is collected, you need to look at Peace Silk/Wild silk. Here the fabric has structure and is stiffer than traditional silk.
- Organic silk is not produced in the same volumes as commercial silk. The process is longer and there are no chemicals used in any step of the production.
Elsien Gringhuis diagonal Wild silk blazer in beige
The Story of Hyrv
Tallin-based jewelry brand, collecting its inspiration from nature’s pure lines and having a contemporary fresh take on jewel crafting.
The start
JF started working with Hyrv spring 2018. We met in our common love for simple, elegant and classic design that lives on forever (and is even handed down through generations), and of course in our common denominator; sustainable and well thought through processes.
Since then we’ve seen Hyrv grow and gaining new followers. They are consistent in the way they build their universe, and we couldn’t be more proud to work with designer Kateryna and her team.
Design process
All of Hyrvs collections are made in their studio in Harjumaa, Tallin, Estonia. The team uses a combination of handcraft and 3D printing, but also do customization and special customer-collaborations.
The workshop has 3 workers and some part time freelancers when orders are larger. The facility holds a high standard when it comes to both worker and environmental guidelines.
Hyrv only use recycled silver, natural stones and other natural materials in their collections. For polishing or matting silver surface they use walnut shells or other organic fillers. Artisanal methods are implemented in every collection, and they use non-toxic and low energy sources. E.g. the use of 3D printing increase efficiency, use less energy than other methods, and is a significant way of reducing unwanted waste.
Hyrv decided early on to not use any synthetic inserts, packaging or exhibition displays (for storefronts) that could be harmful to the environment. They only use natural and recycled material for their displays and packaging, like the 3D printed wood plates and the recycled cotton and paper bags and boxes. It is both 100% recycled and recyclable.
Founder and designer
The driving force behind Hyrv is founder and Creative Director Kateryna Pishon. She was born in Tallinn and got her BA in Jewellery Design from Estonian Academy of Arts. After polishing her skills at Antwerp Koninklijke Academie voor Schone Kunsten (The Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp), she worked in a New York’s jewelry company. This combination of experiences gave her the base she needed to start up Hyrv in 2012. She then felt confident that the time was right to experiment with a variety of ideas, materials, processes and techniques.
“I design for modern, young people with a varied day. I want to design jewelry pieces that are chic and easy to wear, but will also make you stand out.”
– Kateryna Pishon
See full collection from Hyrv here
Eco Swimwear
Label: Underprotection
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Label: Vitamin A
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Label: Nowthen Label
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Lurer du på noe? Spør oss her!
The story of Hekne
Each HEKNE collection carries the colours of a selected bird. This way the label connects each collection to nature and give themselves restrictions that elevates their universe.
Careful in all they do
HEKNE was established in 2013 by Anja Birgitte Daatland Hekne and Siglinde Maria Lunde, two childhood friends. The fall 2016 collection was their first, which also is a testament to the two women’s planning skills, doing every bit of their production with people and planet in mind. Spring 17 they launched their second collection.
Anja has a BA degree in Fashion Design from Ravensbourne College in London and has studied Marketing Management at CPHbusiness in Copenhagen. Siglinde has studied PR and marketing at BI Norwegian Business School in Oslo.
Connected to nature
HEKNE is all about the slow way of producing, and they find their inspiration in the organic harmony of nature. They want to take part in changing the pattern of overconsumption, focusing instead on small classic collections which can, both in quality and cut, last more than one season.
Early fall 17 Hekne updated their universe with two classics, off course built with organic and recycled materials, and every bit produced under organized and good conditions in a small factoriy in Lithuania. The two-piece capsule is inspired by the Mallard
See full collection from Hekne here
5 for July
1. The Dress
Kimono dress from Elsien Gringhuis. Isn’t it nice when something can be worn several ways? This one can. Opening in front or opening in back? Feel the mood and choose based on that. Good large pocket to dig your hands into. Customize size if you need to or choose one of the pre-set sizes.
2. The Shoes
Lemon Zest pumps from Guava. These are for showing of and probably (if you are not an extremely skilled heel-walker demands bicycle or taxi. But what are great show-off shoes like these without the specialized constructed heel from Guava? It is the icing on the cake and what makes them really 100 % perfect.
3. The Backpack
Backpack with tassels in Dove Pink from Kokosina. Classic and practical, still fashionable and easy to take from day to night. We love the tassel bags, and recommend, if you don’t particularly like this colour; check out the other tasselbags – maybe there is one there for you.
4. The Earrings
The Waterdrop Earrings from A/bareness. Boho to the bone, but does not require an embroidered dress to fit inn. Actually, it goes with almost anything. Bring out your streetwear and match with these babies. Trust us; they have the right kind of bling to them.
5. The socks
Vera Socks from Swedish Stockings. These babies are currently out of stock, but will soon be back, so we add them to the list (it is off course a REASON for them being out of stock – they are bang on this summer for trainers or heels..any shoes). Let us know if you want to be notified when it is back in stock.
Mørck – High quality leather
Behind the label
Norwegian label Mørck consists of mother and daughter team, Marianne Mørck and Monika Mørck Hauge. Marianne has her background in orthopedics (which is closely related to the body and the individual), and Monika is an educated artist.
Carefully selected
Mørck advocates for natural and traditional materials and wish to promote local businesses as well as ethical and sustainable production. They collaborate with tanneries in different countries and spend a great deal of time finding the leather, where the quality and sustainable choice is evident.
To choose goat, reindeer and for the first time FW17, Norwegian lamb leather, is something that makes logistics an important part of the labels collection planning. The dream would be to do the whole process closer to home, but for now this is impossible. It is a true evidence of the labels sustainable core, that they do not choose the easiest route, but instead make sure each product is made with the right type of leather.
Small concise collections
Mørck combines these ancient material traditions with modern design and solid craftsmanship. Through the acknowledgement of the inherent qualities of natural materials, clothes with durability and patina are created. Leather from salmon and reindeer is by nature a limited resource. There are practical limits for manufacture. Consequently, the collections by Mørck will inevitably be small and exclusive.
Mørck Stitching only use leather from livestock animals that have free range of movement and from farmers treating animals with respect when it comes to protection, breeding and health.
Salmon and reindeer were important factors of survival for the early settlers in the north thousands of years ago. They provided food. They provided clothing. Towards the end of the Stone Age, the goat gradually became important for people’s livelihood. Mørck takes up again these traditions by showing that use of the leather can be luxurious, long lasting and of the highest quality.
Working with Elsien Gringhuis
The start
Just Fashion started working with Elsien Gringhuis a few years back. With our shared core values it was a great meet. Thanks to Skype we are always able to talk directly with designers far away and get a sense of how they work and think on a personal level. This is really important to us.
From this starting point we have seen Elsien grow, building each stone of her business on the same ground principles and keeping her core. Being featured in Italian and German Vogue last year as a design talent to watch was a great confirmation that Elsien manages what we want to show the world; it is possible to be forward thinking and deliver FASHION while still choosing better production methods and raw materials in the process.
Building a book
Elsien’s design is not built on collections and seasons. The design is made much more like books, where each collection brings a new chapter, but all parts of the book are always available. Comparing the collections, you can see the similarities in the style and the design, the colour scheme and the cut of the products, and it is all made to build on each other and be mixed and matched. Elsien always use a shape element in each collection. That way each chapter she produces is stringent and saves fabric in the process.
Design process
Elsien’s design principal is completely based on sustainability. Form, function, material and finishing all contribute to designs with a long life span and high quality. Being a sustainable brand is more than using just the best fabrics. All design is built on the No Waste principle, trying to make a result of nearly no waste in the design process. The focus is on highly innovative patterns that reduce the waste to a minimum.
High end fabric quality
Elsien Gringhuis works with wool, cotton, silk and other natural materials bought from trusted retailers in Italy and the Netherlands. The label does their best at finding a balance between being sustainable and being a high-end fashion label. Most fabrics are GOTS, BCI and/or Oekotex certified, and the goal is to get all of them certified. The important thing though, is to keep the fabric quality high, so the design will last a lifetime. All items are produce locally in Elsien’s studio, on demand, not made before you order them.
Education and rewards
- Cum Laude at the academy of visual arts in Arnhem (ArtEZ).
- Won the Createurope in Berlin, the Mittelmoda in Italy and was nominated for the Frans Molenaar-award.
- Presented her first collection during the Amsterdam Fashion Week in 2009.
- Won the Green Fashion Competition in 2011
- Won the Fair Luxury Award in 2012.
“A functional and well thought out design makes me very happy. All good things are simple, but there is nothing more difficult than to make a good and simple design.”
– Elsien Gringhuis
Anja Stang visited our store opening in Oslo <3
Joakim Kleven & Frida Ottesen x Just Fashion
The Norwegian bloggers and advocates for fashion with compassion, Joakim Kleven and Frida Ottesen made this BEAUTIFUL editorial with styles from our store. Take a look! And check out the pages of these talented young stylish people! They are the future and they set the standard for what they want fashion to be! We salute them!
The Manzanillo Sweater and Masaya Skirt
Our universe
Win products from A/BARENESS
Our first product-gift is up at Bidra
Support us with 300 kr ( 34€) and take part in the draw to win two rings and three bracelets from A/BARENESS! Total value of products are 1300 kr (145€)
Go to our campaign at bidra
Just Fashion store in Oslo
A sustainable Luxury store in Oslo?
Yes! We want to be the ones doing it. Help us out!
Our cities are full of stores, and 99, 9 % of them are offering us mass-produced design.
For some reason, and we believe it snuck up on us, we’ve all been caught in this illusion that the norm is to be able to shop cheap and fast, without any other concern than the time it takes you to stop by a store. It’s also the norm to be able to do so many times in the course of a really short period. And to experience new collections and sale items every time you stop by. And there is no such thing as a win win when it comes to this multitude of cheap options. The risk is taken by somebody far away that you cannot see.
Just Fashion have worked hard for some time to erase the line between sustainability and fashion. We are tired of the question if it is possible to produce a basic t-shirt in a good way. Of course it is. So our next step is to make people able to stop by and experience our designer stories and touch the quality of each item. We want to become a store in the physical world as well as online.
How can we make it happen?
Even though we’ve grown since we started out, we are still a small startup with great ambition and our heart on our sleeve. So to be able to take the next step and establish ourselves in a physical store, we need your help.
Take a look at our campaign at Bidra.no and support us if you can. We understand that for people living abroad it might seem strange supporting a store that you may never visit. But if you are a fan of Just Fashions universe and our designers and want us all to grow, your support now, big or small, will also affect our online growth. Our gift-program is mainly offering redux cards for our store, but we will also weekly (for 3, 5 weeks from now) add products you can win when supporting us, and also some limited edition items. Follow our Facebook-page for daily info about these added gifts.
(dreamstore-collage)
Who are the people behind the design?
To read more about the Just Fashion Team, what your support will cover in the establishment of our shop and the current gift run, go to our campaign at Bidra :)
We will not be able to make this happen without your help, please support us :)
Thank you in advance!
Christmas Popup in Oslo 2016
Only in Oslo, at Vulkan Depot with our friends at Dreams Collected
November 11 – 13, 2016
Friday 10 AM – 19 PM
Saturday 10 AM – 18 PM
Sunday 12 – 17 PM
Our designers at Oslo Runway SS17
We are so proud to announce that two of our designers are taking part in this year’s Oslo Runway. If you are in Oslo, make sure you get yourself a ticket to the show.
Beate Godager
Beate Godager was picked by a jury of business insiders to participate in a talent selection showing at the runway 23rd of August.
The jury consisted of Charlotte Bik Bandlien, Lasse Fløde, Carmita Carlsson and Torunn Myklebust.
Hasla
Hasla is showcasing their design in the jewelry showroom at Sentralen in the heart of Oslo 24th of August. You can among other designs look at their new pearl collection launching shortly.
How to do the Boho trend the slow fashion way
The relaxed linen and cotton bohemian products can be well-produced, high quality, and still on trend.
The relaxed accessories
As seen on the runway on a dress from Chloe…
The white dress
As seen on the runway from Balenciaga…
The relaxed shirt
Zero waste factories
Congrats to Swedish Stockings – their two factories are now zero waste guaranteed :)
